Lock out fun and other adventures!

Hey everyone!

So, I didn’t post anything yesterday!  Oops!  But really, I am trying so hard to post pictures- it just takes forever.  For another taste of Morocco, feel free to facebook stalk me and see what my friends have posted- I’m tagged in some pictures.

This weekend was relatively boring, so my sincere apologies.  On Friday I got locked out of my house for awhile, which was not cool.  Thankfully, the guy who runs the dry cleaners across the street told me my sister was at the hammam and would be back shwiya (Arabic for soonish- the most literal translation is Spanish en seguida.)  I went to the internet café, and even though I didn’t have money, the lovely guy there told me not to worry and let me watch my Grey’s Anatomy and Gossip Girl on the condition I’d come back and pay him at some point.  By the way, both of those shows were awesome.  And I still can’t find a way to watch Glee here!  I can’t find the new episode on any of my familiar standbys. 

Friday night I didn’t really do anything, mainly because I was exhausted!  But Saturday I went to visit my dear friend Jenna in the hospital, where she has been stuck fighting a blood infection for a week!!!  She was released today and is doing well, but a lot of this weekend was spent watching MTV Arabia in her hospital room.  I told y’all it was an exciting weekend.  But I did spend some quality time bonding with my host mama.  We watch game shows together, and get mad when people don’t know easy answers (dear silly Libyans: Mardonna is Argentine, not American.)  I also had movie night Saturday night, and watched Enchanted.  This actually backfired, since I saw the Time Warner building and really started craving pinkberry.  Can we work on getting that in Morocco please?

Sunday I went to church, and it was a special day.  The bishop or cardinal was visiting- it was hard to tell who, and if it was the bishop it was of France instead of Morocco.  But it was nice because we pretended to be multicultural.  There was a good portion of the service in Spanish, and at the end we sang “Lord I want to be a Christian in my heart” in English.  However, there was a lot of southern-style “amens” and the important guy did not seem to like that as much as I did.

We started a new round of classes today, and I’m taking a course on Women and Change.  It’s interesting, but can also be frustrating to me- a lot of people want to focus on feminist theory.  I’m realizing that I’m really not a theory oriented person- I’d much rather be out there doing something or at least talking about people doing something.  And yes, I know theory is the basis for the actions that cause the change- so if you can stomach it than good for you and I’m glad there are people like you in the world! 

We also had a session with an Iranian film maker and writer, who made a documentary on divorce court in Iran (the equivalent of family court.)  It is truly depressing the lengths people go to in these courts to get what they want.   I must say that I feel like an outcast among student here because my moral center is just a little too strong- I don’t care if your situation is bad, lying to the court about your actions is not the answer.  Of course, my time at work at school has shown me some of the horrors of family court in the U.S. as well.  I must say that the two are surprisingly similar.  I believe most people were just shocked because they don’t realize how bad the situation can be in the U.S. as well- people are willing to do anything, and make ridiculous accusations or promises in order to get a divorce or keep custody.  We have to remember that when we see a documentary that a custody case is a painful thing in any country, and it does not appear kind in any of these cases.  However, the ability of women to obtain a divorce is certainly more restricted in Iran- although the film maker said it is no longer stigmatizing, which may means they have actually moved beyond the U.S. in this manner.

On Thursday we depart for our rural homestay, and we had orientation for it today.  While I listened to other students laugh and despair at the situations we will soon find ourselves in, I couldn’t help but reflect on my previous situations.  A few things we were told to prepare for brought up very specific reminders:

1)     1)  People don’t treat dogs as pets, they will throw rocks at them: Well, I learned that the hard way, but rest assured I won’t hesitate this time- and my director is trying to find the family with the least dogs given my tendency to have panic attacks whenever I see dogs running.  However, they also insist that if you get bit you have to get the rabies vaccine- Dear AMIGOS, are we the only people who use the 10-day rule?

2)     2) You may not have electricity: I remember winding that ridiculous flashlight in Panama for the babies to play with while I would walk around just looking at the stars glimmering without interference.

3)      3) You won’t have toilets: Gotta love latrines/ Haitian style fun!  I think we’re all just hoping for no haitian happiness, or that would make the hygiene situation unfortunate. 

4)      4) You get to see chickens and milk a cow and you might see horses: Yeah, even just being from North Carolina makes this pretty normal

So I may be rather jaded toward this experience, as unfortunate as that may be.  It’s just the experience is supposed to make us understand how some people live in these “extreme” conditions.  And while I know every community is different, I’ve seen how difficult it can be.  And to be honest, I’m still haunted by nightmares of Haiti, and I’d rather not be transported back there for a week without a little more mental preparation and also without any activities planned to do anything to empower the people.

But who knows, maybe I’m overdue for another super-inspirational “I need to do more in the world” experience.  I can’t really do volunteer work here (language barriers, and the only place I could is Casablanca, which is too far for weekdays, plus there’s not really a volunteer culture) and it makes me sad and restless.  I guess I have to see my work as a cultural ambassador as more important- a type of volunteer work as I share it with my family and anyone else I meet.  But if there are any email campaigns or outreach y’all think I could do from here, don’t hesitate to email, call, or facebook with suggestions!  If you’re reading this, you know I love feeling useful, and sometimes I just don’t here, much to my dismay.

So this is a long post, and I’ll leave further reflections till later!  Check your inbox for messages from me (I love email) and I love you and miss you all!  Talk to you Wednesday or maybe Thursday morning, but prepare to not hear from me for a week!

Xoxo Lauren (sorry, too much gossip girl this week, I couldn’t resist!)

Pictures of Meknes, Casablanca, and more!

Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca

The inside (that's right, even non- Muslims like me can go in!

I'm alive, I promise!

The Grainery in Meknes- it's huge and insulated to keep the grain cold- brilliant!

The view from Meknes!

A lama and a big city- is this the beginning of a beautiful friendship?

Ciao!

I know, the pictures are slow to upload, but some are up now and more are coming throughout the day- all my favs from the past week will be up by around 6 my time?  Wa-ha? (OK)

*Sorry, schedule change.  No pictures tonight, hopefully tomorrow?*  I’m trying not to be frustrated!

So the “ciao” is a small ode to the fact that I was asked if I was Italian yesterday by my taxi driver.  The original guess was French, but my ability to read the Italian pay-meter caused some re-evaluation.  Dear Moroccans, why do you assume only the Europeans are multi-lingual?

In other news, this past weekend was amazing.  We went to Meknes (a beautiful small town), Volubiss (Roman ruins that are spectacular and look like they belong in Italy, not Morocco) and Fez (which has a medina so big the guides still get lost and streets so narrow you have to walk single file.)  Each town had something special to offer, and Meknes was my favorite, probably due to my love of small towns.  Fez was a little overwhelming for me, and unfortunately my ankle bothered me some and I couldn’t explore quite as much as I wanted to.  But I did get to take a hot shower and also watch Aladdin with some friends.  Aladdin may be racist and sexist, among other things, but that doesn’t make it any less of a fabulous movie!!!

So we arrived back on Monday, and it was off to the hammam for me to get rid of the dirt of travelling, then to bible study to cleanse my spirit as well.  On Tuesday we had class, although almost half our group was out sick- it seems this is pretty common after the first excursion.  We got our tickets and money for Wednesday so that we could take on the big city by ourselves- that is Casablanca.

Unfortunately, my family is still not understanding that grits and milk are not a good meal for a girl who can’t handle milk, and it was a little rough on my stomach Wednesday morning.  I woke up with the call to prayer (around 4:30 am) feeling nauseous and couldn’t go back to sleep- ick.  Thankfully I didn’t actually have any problems in Casablanca, but had to make it a half-day trip as I was very tired.

In Casablanca I first went to the Hassan II Mosque, the sight of many of my exciting pictures.  This Mosque, the third largest in the world, is actually open to non-Muslims (most are not,) but as a sign of respect I wore a veil.  I believe this made me stick out from some of the other tourists, but when I told my host family they were very proud of me.   It’s a beautiful mosque, and so huge that it’s impossible to capture with pictures- you just have to go.  But almost all the materials are Moroccan (only the glass and some stucco is Italian) which makes it even more beautiful. 

After that I was off to a meeting with a doctor at Hopital Ibn Rochd.  After the most complicated and chaotic process of getting into the hospital (I’m still quite sure I only got in because I looked so confused and out of place) I was able to meet with the formidable Dr. Himmich, a truly amazing woman.  In addition being a doctor, she is the founder of the first NGO in MENA to fight AIDS.  While we are still trying to figure out how I will overcome language barriers, I am hopeful I will be able to work with her organization for my final paper.   The director for the campaign specifically aimed at female prostitutes speaks fluent Spanish, so I believe there is still hope. 

After this, I had hoped to wander the hospital quarter, which seems very upscale and therefore safe.  However, my friend could not find a taxi to bring her there, so instead I used my impressive taxi hailing skills to get one to the train station.  From there we set off to meet some other friends at Rick’s Café- yes, like in the movie Casablanca.  Run by an American ex-pat who obviously knows what tourists want, the overpriced café makes up for its prices (which are the same as those in the US) with its ambience (modeled after the movie sets, with tv screens playing Casablanca on constant loop on every floor) and delicious cheesecake.  It also (gasp!) serves alcohol, which means if I ever return sometime in the evening, I may have to try a mojito at the bar- or perhaps something with gin?  But it’s a cute place, and the terrace is beautiful as well.

The trains to Casablanca were also very nice, similar in style to NJ Transit trains.  I encountered no problems, which was good as I had heard some stories of girls having difficulty.  But riding the trains during non peak hours seems to alleviate these problems! 

It’s likely I’ll be living in Casablanca for 3 weeks at the end of the semester- so be prepared to hear more about it.  I haven’t actually been to the “medina” yet, but I could be back there this weekend- or going to another town for a marriage festival (known to be very interesting, since the brides have equal say in choosing their husbands) or a jazz festival in Tangiers.  Or I could just do some shopping in Rabat- Fez gave me some ideas, and with my host sister at my side, I’m hopeful I can get some pretty good deals!  So far I’ve been good at not doing too much shopping, but we’ll see if I can keep my savings account intact!

Well, that’s it for now.  Again, pictures will be all up today- get excited!  And don’t forget to skype, or facebook message, or email- I’m feeling pretty cut off from the world this week and just a little homesick.  So send me a message and let me know what’s new in your lives- I want to hear all the gossip stateside!

I’ll try and do another post on Friday- but no promises if I have to run off to Casablanca!  Talk to y’all soon and hugs and kisses, as always!

Love always,

Lauren

What about Women?

Hey y’all!

While beautiful pictures of Meknes and Fez will have to wait (sorry, I have homework so I can’t really upload pictures) until Thursday (with pictures of Casablanca?) I did want to write something for today.  For my research I’ve been reading a lot of Fatima Mernissi.  She is a Moroccan feminist, and while she’s become more conservative with age, many of her writings are seen as extremely liberal and thought provoking.  For those of you with excellent memories who I went to high school with, she wrote Size 6: the Western Women’s harem, which we read in AP English 11 (at least, we did if we had Ms. Robertson.  Ms. Collins seemed to me to love the Western Woman’s harem, so I doubt she would be critical of it.)  She believes that, while Moroccan and more broadly Muslim women are oppressed, Western women often receive the same amount of oppression just in different ways.  After careful consideration, I must agree.  And so tonight (although you’ll read this tomorrow) I bring to you my reasons why we as Western women are just as oppressed*- though not by men, as Muslim women are, but instead by ourselves and industry:

1.       My host sister veils her hair every time she leaves the house.  I wrap my hair every night (okay, not every night, but I’m told I should) in a scarf so that it does not break and I can maintain the long, luscious locks of hair commercials.

2.       Depending on your interpretation, the Qu’ran can allow for polygamy.  However, is it that much worse to  allow your husband one other person to take care of him and sleep with him than it is for him to constantly be seeking the companionship of prostitutes, as recent U.S. examples seem to show?  Personally, I’d rather know my enemy- at least then I can compete.

3.       We constantly find fault in that women are covered in Muslim countries.  But is it not equally frustrating that, for a girl to “go out” for the night she must put on extremely little clothing and spend hours doing her hair and makeup, or else men just ignore her?

4.       A Moroccan woman can go to a store and have clothing made for them, where as in the US we are constantly forced to squeeze in to vanity-sized clothing- an effort to make us feel better about obesity while we realize that, even wearing a small size, it is impossible to ever attain the ideal supermodel shape.  Eating disorders do not exist in the level they do in the U.S. here, because there is not this constant pressure from the media.

5.       Imagine watching a commercial that’s actually selling a product (like hair dye, or even coca-cola) and it not be about the attractiveness of the woman holding the product- because she’s wearing a veil and conservative clothing.  Sounds nice, huh?  It is!

6.       If Muslim women are supposed to remain pure until marriage (a sentiment often echoed, at least in the South) and this damages their sexually, then in more “progressive” areas aren’t girls encouraged to embrace a hook-up culture that is damaging both emotionally and physically?

*I am not implying that women in the U.S. must deal with the same level of harassment or domestic violence as is endemic of Muslim countries (for statistics, I recommend Half the Sky by Nicholas Kristoff.)  However, most Western feminists I know believe the Muslim woman is oppressed by the Qu’ran, which dictates her clothing and also some actions.  I just do not believe that we have moved into a place where we are not oppressed in a startling similar manner, as I believe my examples illustrate.

So hit the comments if you agree, disagree, think that I’m completely off base, or just have another example.  But I must say that being abroad often makes me realize how oversexualized U.S. culture has become for  young girls, and I just don’t believe this is a positive lifestyle for us to embrace.  If in a Muslim country you have to stay covered, and in the U.S. you have to take everything off, then is one really better than the other?

Again, pictures and fun stories, rather than psychological musings, coming soon!  Hopefully also will be a meeting with the head of the Moroccan NGO against AIDS (either I’ll meet her in Casablanca Wednesday or maybe the weekend.  Let me know how you’re doing, as usual!  Also, I’m starting to follow some of the immigration/education law going into effect in the U.S. but it’s hard to  get news on it here- so let me know what’s happening!

Love always,

Lauren

Morocco- A comedy with moments of intense drama

“Coming soon to theaters near you, a story of hysterical laughter and beautiful backdrops, spliced with scenes of heartbreak, frustration, and anger.”

Well, if after 3 weeks (almost) here I were to imagine a movie of Morocco, Casablanca does not come to mind.  My times in Morocco certainly have less romance and more comedy- I make my host sister walk 5 extra blocks because I don’t know my way around the medina, a friend falls in a hole in the street, I try to use only my right hand to eat and my family tells me I eat as well as a toddler.  Such is life here in Rabat.  But I’m finally starting to feel at home?  My ankle is healing well, and I have convinced everyone I don’t need to go to the doctor.  I’m excited for an excursion this weekend to Fez and Meknes (I promise I’ll have pictures next week!) and ready for a real shower.  Plus, Monday is another hammam day, and there’s a layer of skin I would love to shed.  I’m also hoping to find some Mexican food or at least a glass of wine this weekend (for those of you who are abroad in Europe- be happy that you can drink, and don’t overuse this privilege) and a delightful Disney movie (Aladdin, anyone?  So many untrue stereotypes, but still so good.)

However, today is a day of frustration, and it is time for me to vent some to all of you who are patiently reading my blog.  A few things have had my skin crawling this week.  One is my frustration with not being able to go out at night.  The idea that to leave at 7 and get back at 9:30 I have to have a (male) escort can be frustrating to an independent girl like me.  I hate accepting my own vulnerability, as I have been forced to do this week even more because of my ankle problems, and I wish that there were a way for me to change this.  Anyone who lives in the US (or Canada!) is lucky that we have so much gender equality- even if we don’t always see it that way and arguably still have a long way to go.  So if anyone here is in a women’s studies or social justice class this semester, I urge you to consider studying  the plight of women in developing countries.  I assure you, working to end this is just as fulfilling (and in my opinion, more important, but this is not always shared) than working to assure U.S causes, such as female sports teams receive equal funding with men’s teams.  Furthermore, today my friends and I were confronted with an incident of theft- while sitting outside at a delightful fruit juice café, we were shocked when my friend looked down and realized her bag was missing.  We never left the table and none of us have any idea how it happened- it was a huge shock, and obviously extremely upsetting for the girl whose bag was stolen.  Although this type of crime happens in the US as well, it’s upsetting to not feel safe and also to lose your things when it’s difficult to replace them.  So as a warning to everyone, be careful with your things, especially while travelling- but at the same time remember that things are replaceable, while you are not. 

The last of my news for the week is that I believe I’ve finally begun to focus on what I’ll be writing my final paper about.  I have been forced to choose between public health and prostitution- it appears there is no way to combine the two.  My current possible themes are: Islam and Abortion (which is illegal here, but performed anyway,) Combating the spread of AIDS in Morocco (difficult since premarital sex is, on paper, illegal,) or the unveiled women: how Islam contributes to prostitution in Morocco (prostitution is also, of course, illegal.)  I am open to any suggestions about any of these topics, so hit the comments, facebook, or email me (I mean it!)  I’ll be needing to turn one of these themes (Contraception/Abortion, AIDS, or Prostitution) into my thesis, which means I’ll also need to study it in China and as of yet (hopefully! Fingers crossed!) undisclosed Latin American location.  All are feasible, I believe, but present different challenges.  For example, while I would greatly like to study prostitution, AIDS is of particular interest in China right now, where a case is being heard of a teacher who was not hired due to his HIV Positive status.  However, it is not particularly of interest in Mexico, while illegal abortions and contraception becoming readily available in indigenous areas is considered controversial.  So as you can see, I am at my wit’s end on what to choose, and would love guidance.  No matter what, it will be a difficult road ahead, as all of these topics are taboo and therefore are going to be difficult to find people to talk to about.  In Morocco, the easiest would be AIDS, and the most difficult prostitution.  But we’ll see where my studies take me!

Thanks so much for reading through my angst and indecision (I hope that doesn’t make my life into a Twilight book) and as always I hope to hear from you!  Expect some beautiful pictures on Tuesday- but until then enjoy wherever in the world this post finds you and smile because I love you and miss you!

Love always,

Lauren

P.S. I am in the process of assigning my fake husband (a recommendation from my host sister) a name.  Any suggestions?

Pictures and Words

Hey y’all!

Greetings from yet another bright and sunny day in Morocco!  That’s right, 2 weeks and (knock on wood) no rain!  I could get used to this, but I miss my puddle-jumping days a little.  It can also be pretty unbearably hot here, especially when you have to dress conservatively. 

So I last posted something I wrote on Saturday, which means it’s time for an update!  Here’s what’s been happening in my exciting life!

Church: That’s right, I went to church in Morocco!  It was a Catholic Church, but the service was more based on a general conservative Christian service (not everyone kneels, the Apostle’s Creed is recited instead of the Nicene, etc.)  I suspect this is because there are so few Christians in Morocco that trying to establish churches for each would be difficult.  This church, however, did have a sizeable congregation, which appeared to be mostly Sub-Saharan (I’m basing this off of dress and also music) with some Europeans and Moroccans in the mix.  The choir was incredible, and the music is more similar to Southern-Baptist style gospel than the traditional Catholic hymns.  Unfortunately, I’ll be out of town this week on one of our “excursions” but every Sunday I’m in Rabat I’ll be going. 

Fun fact: Before the mosque of Hassan II was built, the tallest building in Rabat was actually the Catholic Cathedral.

Beach: So after church on Sunday we (some friends and a few siblings) went to the beach.  We went to a beach outside of Rabat, which was beautiful.  Surprisingly, the harassment at the beach was not nearly as bad as harassment on the street in Rabat.  We made some conjectures as to why this was, one of them being socioeconomic status (the beach is in a wealthy area, with beautiful hacienda-esque homes.)  Regardless, it seems appearing to only speak Chinese may be the way to go, as according to my academic director Chinese has had no appeal to Moroccans, and he estimates there are only 10 people in Rabat who speak it.  I am on the lookout for them and will alert you should I run into them.  On the way back from the beach, my friend Erin and I had a dance party on the bus, courtesy of her ipod, and much to the amusement of our fellow travelers.  We were afraid at first we would be yelled at (it is shuma, or shame to dance in public) but the women and children very much enjoyed our dancing, as did some of the men!

The beach I was at was actually even prettier than this one- but the water was very cold!

Daily Life: I have class every day forever (actually 8:30-3 or 5) but find ways to amuse myself after.  My sister and I went to the jetski competition, which I found similar to NASCAR- exciting for the first few laps and the last few laps, but boring in-between.  I also took a nasty fall on Monday and managed to sprain my ankle (of course) but lucky I brought my ace bandage and have been limping around the medina quite well, much to the dismay of my family, who wants to insist I don’t overexert myself. 

My current prison, due to my ankle injury

My studies: The last subject for today, I may have finally decided on a topic for my final paper (we have 3 weeks to research and write this paper, living on our own) although my advisor and I have yet to discern if it will be feasible.  I want to study the availability of health care services to prostitutes, and while it may be possible for me to study prostitution (in nonspecific terms) or health care, it will be difficult to study both.  One thing I was told specifically is that I can under no circumstance stay in a brothel (a girl did this about 10 years ago and this is highly illegal- if caught you would be presumed to be a prostitute.)  While this was not my plan, I must admit it’s something I would consider doing.  But it seems I will have to work very hard to figure out how to access this alienated population- I’m hoping to find a doctor who works to provide care for them to give me some access.

                Well, that’s it for now- I’ll try and post again on Friday!  Until then, a million kisses and hugs!  I miss you all terribly, and PLEASE email me and tell me about how you are!  I worry!

Love always,

Lauren

Part of the Royal Compound- can I live here while I write my final paper?

From Saturday- McDonalds, The book, Curfew, and being the token Ginger

Hey y’all!

Long time no write!  I have a long weekend this weekend, which means I haven’t had class since Wednesday!!  If only every week could be like this.  September 10^th was the Eid here in Morocco (but nobody knew till the 9^th because you have to watch the moon) so we have been celebrating.  And how do you celebrate the Eid?  Well, you put on your new clothes, and if you’re my host brother, model them for all of us, and go get your hair done, and EAT.  So much fried sweet food, it’s like every meal is at the State Fair. 

                However, in the interest of full disclosure, I must confess that on September 9^th, I sinned.  That’s right, I was out with friends, and we were hungry for lunch, and we went to McDonald’s.  It was the only thing open (and even it had a big sign in the window saying it would only serve children and non-Muslims, though I’m not sure how they were enforcing that.) And over a happy meal with coke light and an ice cream cone (yeah, for 40 cents more you can get an ice cream cone) I assuaged my homesickness.  And I got an awesome toy that lets me shoot water at people.

                That day I also did a little shopping (future housemates: I got something for our TA) and went to the garden in the casbah, which was beautiful.  Unfortunately now that Ramadan is over everything I want to do must be done during the day- it isn’t safe as a girl to go out late at night.  Most of my friends have 9 o’clock curfews, and I’m lucky to have an 11:30 one, but only if I’m already out and get someone (a boy) to walk me home.  I’m not going to lie, this is not particularly fun, but it presents an interesting challenge.  Plus, I am free to go to the internet café next door until 11:30 without a chaperone.  It may have the ability for me to use my laptop- I’ll keep y’all updated and if so that will be extremely helpful.

                So yesterday I was watching the news with my host family and while the Quran burning may not be big news in the United States, it certainly is here.  First, it’s going to happen basically on Eid (today) for U.S. Muslims, which just adds insult to injury.  But I think my host sister summed it up best.  She said that the terrorists (actually her word was sinners) burn the Bible and the U.S. gets angry and says that isn’t okay.  Now places in the U.S. are burning the Quran and the Muslim world is getting angry.  But what neither side’s news reports is that these are isolated, extremist acts.  My religion teaches me not to be cruel to anyone, or burn any holy book- does yours?

                Aside from this political issue, there is very little anti-American sentiment.  Morocco’s are immigrating in high numbers to Quebec though, so telling boys I’m a Canadian citizen is a surefire way to get some marriage proposals.  I’m passing for now though. 

                So that’s it for now.  I have plans with some friends to go to the beach later this weekend, which should be super fun and nice.  After that it’s back for a whole week of class (my first full week) but with extended wifi hours so you’ll hear from me.  I love you and miss you all and hope you’re enjoying the photos and posts!  Email, call, comment, or facebook me- I want to know what’s happening in your lives too!

Love always,

Lauren

An update, finally!

Hey y’all!

Greetings from Zanquet Souika!  That’s the road I live close to.  And yes, that’s souika as in souk, or market.  I live super close to shopping, which makes me happy!   Today is my last day of the first week of classes- we have Thursday and Friday off for Eid (the celebration at the end of Ramadan.)  While others are making plans to go out of town, I think I’m going to try to explore Rabat this weekend.  A few things on my list: find a church (I’m joining a bible study too!), find a place for my sister to stay when she visits, find a gym to join, and do some catch-up reading. 

Last Sunday night I went to the hammam, a trip that will definitely not have pictures.  The hammam is similar to a Turkish bath, or so I’m told.  You go in to your locker room (gender specific of course) and take off however much you are comfortable doing (if you are a boy, you must wear shorts, but if you are a girl you can wear as little as you’d like.)  Then you enter a steam room, where you fill up buckets of water to rinse with and find a nice place to set your bath mat.  Then, using a special brush, you scrub off all the dead skin off your body.  This is not an entirely comfortable process, as you have to brush pretty hard, but you feel so clean after!!  You also can shampoo and condition normally and even shave if you want (but with the risk of staph, that may not be such a good idea.)  It is a great, albeit awkward, cultural experience and I highly recommend it if you ever travel to Morocco!

The people in my program are all wonderful and so much smarter than me, it can be very intimidating.  But they’re also very nice and I’ve made some great friends who are willing to go get chocolate milkshakes with me when I need them (pictures to follow, but they aren’t on my camera, unfortunately.)  Everyone is going through a lot right now, so I’m lucky I know good people I can talk to. 

My host family also continues to be wonderful, and my host brother is becoming less scared of me.  They are very conservative, though, so it can take some adjustments.  For example, I can only shower at night because going out with wet hair is shuma (shame, a very common word here!)  But really, I’m learning a lot and love having some privacy, a new thing for me with host families.

Lastly, I am constantly told Morocco is an unfortunate place to be a woman.  This can be true; street harassment is annoying, as being catcalled all the time and not allowed to go out late at night (except during Ramadan, when everyone does) are not things I’m used to.  But while some students have had more trouble (being followed, touched) I’m so far impervious to this level of harassment.  But I certainly am not enjoying time in yet another country where machismo is the rule of the land, to the point where women cannot eat outdoors in cafes (the sidewalks are men’s spaces.)

Well, that’s it for now.  I’ll try and blog more this weekend, but if not, Monday, when hours become longer and I have more time to post pictures and such!  Thanks for sticking with me!  I promise my blog will become more interesting!

Love always,

Lauren

P.S. Did anyone see that China is now requiring everyone (including foreigners) to show I.D. when getting cell phones?  Supposedly to stop spam, I’m not looking forward to this intrusion into my privacy!

P.P.S.  I have a boyfriend- the only one who makes harassment look cute.  The six year-old who lives across the street from me always says “hello princess” to me in French (the princess is a redhead, so I’m called princess quite frequently) and has recently told me there is no reason for me to go to my house, I should go to his instead.  I’ll try and keep y’all updated how it goes, and if I get a picture I’ll post it!

Pictures!!!

Casbah!

View from school

Yummy food!

Traffic jam!  There are a lot of these and no crosswalks!

Hunger

Someone I love and respect once told me that only the poor can truly feel hunger:  I must now inform you this is not true.  It is my first day of attempting the Ramadan fast; and surrounded by the sights and sounds and smells of the souk; with 4 and a half hours to go, I know hunger:  Hunger is the feeling of wanting food and not being able to eat it:  And I remain amazed my host family has been doing this every day; and without water:  Such devotion is inspiring no matter what religion you are:

After four days of orientation; Im online.  But still struggling zwith the Moroccan keyboard, so apologies for errors.  Its beautiful here; and my host family is wonderful, alkthough rather quiet:  This could be from not eating: I will be posting pictures on Monday when I can use my computer, but wanted to let everyone know Im fine.  Also, I have a phone, so skype me:  Its 0611865351.  Just remember the time difference.

Thats all for now, as Im off to go convince my little brother that just because Im a redhead doesnt mean he should be scared of me.  Wish me luck and I love and miss you all.

Love always,

Lauren